I was going to start by saying that this addiction to sweet wine has gone too far, but in fact the interesting thing about many such wines is that the sweetness is overshadowed by the other characteristics. Tonight's little beaut is a fine case in point. We thank you, SmallFierceGlasses.
Hugel "Hommage à Jean Hugel" Tokay Pinot Gris 1997 is a lovely, exemplary Alsatian PG, with a bitter orange note to it, and a wee hint of ginger in the finish. Slightly watery, seeming slightly sweet, and low acid, the balance was ideal. I don't think it would age much further - lack of acid, you see, and the fruit is fading rather - but right now it was spot on. 15-16/20