It's odd, really, that there should be such a gulf between speech, and text, and the various sensations that these media are used to try to communicate, one human to another, when humans are so alike, one to another. Yet the differences seem to outweigh the similarities.

And so we resort to such devices as h!h!h! to convey the delightful sensation that comes from sipping Vignes des Deux Soleils Les Mattes 02001, under cork. Four years old, but darkly purple and still zingily acid, still tannic. It has developed an overtone of chocolate to complement the strong savoury nose, and when you taste it it really does make you go "h!h!h!h!h!".

If the onomatopoeia isn't working, listen to the live version of Machine Gun (on, for example, 'Voodoo Child' disc 2). At 9:04 to 9:14 minutes through the song you'll hear the sound of someone who has just tasted Les Mattes. Or you could go and buy some and utter the h!h!h!h!h! yourself, although I rather suspect you would need to settle for a later vintage and then go and hide it away for a couple of years. Les Mattes, under cork, 16/20.

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